There is usually instructions inside the cap of the pressure switch showing which nut to tighten to increase the cut-out pressure. You should probably turn off the power the to pump before removing the cap though since the 220 volt power is very close to the nut you’ll be working on.

If, however, the pressure reaches 60 psi but drops very quickly as soon as a faucet is turned on, this indicates that the bladder in the pressure tank has ruptured and you should really replace the tank. You can effect a temporary fix by turning off the pump, open a faucet until no water flows, then use an air compressor on the snifter valve located on the top of the tank to pre-pressurize the tank to about 40 psi. This will "solve" your problem temporarily, but if the tank bladder is ruptured, the air will soon be absorbed by the water and you’ll be back to square one.
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Not to be wise but it looks like a museum piece to me. It might be worth some big bucks!
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Alignment, suspension and brake shop.

If you are looking for technical (spare/repair) info I would think that steam (trains) enthusiasts will be able to help
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The key with keeping fish is that you’re not ACTUALLY keeping the fish at all, you’re keeping the water! Keep the water healthy, the fish will be healthy, if the water quality goes bad, the fish will get sick and die. Once you and you’re daughter have got into that frame of mind everything else will start to slot into place.

With regards to the olden days and fish in bowls, Goldfish will put up with atrocious living conditions, but it’s far from thriving. These days a LOT more chemicals are in our tap water too, and if you have older piping there will be a lot of heavy metals also, be sure to use dechlorinator as these things can not only harm your fish but harm the essential good bacteria that live in your filter media too - and its those, the bacteria, that you need to keep healthy as it is they that look after your water! Whenever someone on here has mentioned "cycling" - that process grows the bacteria to enough numbers to be able to support fish. A week is NOT long enough! It can take a good month or so for them to be established enough to support the mess fish make.

Fishkeeping does seem exceptionally mind boggling at first, especially compared to how it was done 20, 30, 40 years ago! But at the same time it can be exceptionally absorbing and even educational! I was crap at science at school, but since I’ve started keeping fish my knowledge of chemistry has shot up!

As for feeding, yes there’s a ton of different little rules, ignore the lot. It’s down to trial and error with your particular species of fish and what they are willing to take/what you think is over feeding, and down to the pellet or flake size too. If there’s any waste food falling to the bottom, then you’ve fed too much.

HOWEVER, I do agree with the other poster that recommended taking the fish back to the store, annoying as it is, it is the best move to get your bacterial colony back in check and more research done on fish species!

A coldwater tank is in fact not the best option, I recommend getting a heater and going tropical. A tank without a heater isn’t actually coldwater anyway, it’s room temperature and in summer room temperature can be pretty much tropical anyway! A true coldwater tank has a chiller (which costs 3-4 times as much to buy and run than a heater!).

Buy a heater and research tropical species. In a 60L you could, once your tank’s bacterial colony is back up and healthy, have say, 4-5 male only Platys - colourful, active and one of the hardier beginner fish. DON’T get females, you’ll have endless fry that you’ll get REALLY fed up with.

So yes, take the remaining fish back. Research fishless cycling (it’s not as difficult as it first seems!). Research fish species and you’ll be on the right path.
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If they’re goldfish for example, then you need to take them back. 60 litres is nowhere near enough room for even a single goldfish. If they’re white cloud mountain minnows then 60 litres is fine for them.

The reason you had nitrite in your tank is because the tank wasn’t cycled before you added the fish. I realise you didn’t know this, but it actually takes more like 4-6 weeks of adding ammonia and monitoring the cycle with a test kit. I would recommend you get yourself a test kit (a liquid drop one rather than the cardboard strips) so you can keep an eye on things yourself. It’s actually really interesting too - the test kits are like a little chemistry set and testing the water yourself helps you to understand exactly what goes on in your tank.

The tank will be cycling now, but once it’s done ammonia and nitrite should always be zero, and nitrate should be kept at or below 20ppm with weekly partial water changes - NEVER change all of the water at once! Also, you’ll occasionally need to clean your filter. Do this by simply rinsing out the sponges in old tank water, NOT under the tap as the chlorine in tap water will kill all your good bacteria.

As for feeding, I would say as much as they can eat in a minute or two, twice a day and net out anything they don’t eat. Two flakes per fish is a rather random figure for someone to come up with, seeing as both flakes and fish come in all kinds of different sizes! While you’re still getting readings for ammonia and nitrite though, I would feed very sparingly as more food = more waste.

EDIT: Good info here on cycling: http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
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Be sure to use water dechlorinator after every water change–tap water can kill them faster than ammonia burns.

The reason the fish lived so long in bowls is because goldfish are very tolerant of poor care. They can live through almost anything. That’s no excuse to treat them bad now that you know better, right?

Also, do NOT get goldfish unless you have a very large tank! They can grow over a foot given proper care. Sticking them in small tanks/bowls causes "stunting" where the internal organs keep growing and their outsides stop. It causes a long, agonizing death. While they may live for a few years, goldfish are supposed to live 20-40 years with proper care.

For your size (16 gallons or so), I’d stick with some white cloud mountain minnows. Don’t get an algae eater until you’ve gotten your tank under control and have done some research on which are okay in coldwater. (Common plecos grow 2 feet and are tropical.)

If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me!
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Fishless Cycling:
http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_fishless.php