Pumps

Archive for the ‘Submersible Water Pump’ Category

toilet start a load of clothes the pump will kick off. You can go to the pump house and move a stem sticking out of were the power hooks up and it will kick back on…please help!!!

the stem you are referring to is on the pump pressure sensor. you need to replace that unit.

I just replaced an old jet pump with a submersible. My question is, how long before the water starts clearing up? It’s closing in on 18 hours, and I know it could take awhile. Is there any clarifying agent that could be added to the well?
Thanks.
Just replacing a worn jet pump and pipe. Submersible is 10+ feet off bottom of 80ft well with 50 ft of water.

Was the well "fract" to increase water, or just a new pump?

Is the pump at the same level? 20-25 feet off the bottom?

If you are bringing up dirty water, it will clear gradually with time. A whole house filter will keep the water from staining your fixtures, laundry and drinking water.

Well is 118 Ft. deep with a 1/2 H.P. submersible pump , that draws water to a trough to water cattle. Some suggest to shock the well with acid & or chlorine. Need some suggestions. Thanks Jim

I have had the same problem for our animals here on the farm. We changed to a new submersible pump with a plastic hose connected to the top of the pump. We lowered it down so it sets 1/2 way between the top of the water level and the bottom. We attached the other end of the plastic hose to a water bladder and put 40lbs. of pressure on it. Then we ran a short pies of pvc pipe to an outside facet. Our water here has so much iron in it, it stinks. This should help with some of the problem.we do shock the well one a month with pool chlorine to remove build up in the tank and the piping. We pour 1 cup in the well, run the water till we smell it and let it set for 24 hrs. the next day we run the water till we don’t smell it any longer and we are done. this just cleans out the pipes and keeps the iron build up to a minimum.

I suspect the pump is allowing water into an electrical area of the pump causing the GFCI unit to cut the power. Can someone tell me what i can do to fix my pump to stop this…for example, can i use some kind of sealant on certain areas of the pump that MIGHT be able to seal it from water or is there nothing i can do?

I would suspect first the electrical cord that enters the casting as having in that area developed some sort of a low resistance in the insulation.

And secondly, i would suspect that switching mechanism in the pump, ie the microswitch that is activated by the float to have gone bad.

And thirdly, that rubber seal on the float mechanism might have developed a leak and needs a new seal there.

These components are easily repaired by removal of the top casting on the pump and an examination of the switch and cord.

I recently replaced a microswitch in a Zoller pump for about $15 and a seal on the float mechanism for about $3.

The cord at the entry can be cut off if it appears bad and reinserted thru that knob seal again with an application of a bit of RTV rubber to that seal gromet.

I would not suspect that water has entered the pump. These things are oil filled and pretty well balanced pressure wise so water under pressure would have to displace the oil so most of the time on these pumps its the microswitch area to look at and repair.

HOW DOES IT WORK AND WHAT ALL SPARE PART THAT HAS BEEN USED IN SUBMERSIBLE PUMP

bell & gossett, the leader or pump makers, has a great website in 5 languages.

http://www.bellgossett.com/BG-Literature-English.asp

OK, here’s the deal ( I know it is hokey…) – I have an Above Ground Swimming Pool @ 5500 gallons. I just got an ECCOtemp L-10 Liter Outdoor Tankless Propane Water Heater. – It is supposed to be used for taking showers, etc. I want to use it to help heat my pool. I want to put an electric water pump on the pool to recirculate the water back up to the ECCO. The ECCO needs water pressure of 30-50 PSI to open the ignition circuit for operation. There are alot of types of water pumps to choose from, but they do not list the PSI , just the GPH. I am looking at 1" Clear Water pumps from Harbour Freight – $29 – $49 , 1/2 HP but I don’t know if it will generate the PSI. Submersible pump would be easy also, but not sure if they have the PSI I need. I KNOW that the pool chemicals will affect the ECCO. I want a way to heat my pool in the cooler months, and in the evening – not 24/7. Cost is important. I live in Florida and don’t want to pursue the solar angle on this brainstorm. The pool heats quite nicely on its own, but the above ground really saps the heat from it. I do have the pool somewhat insulated. Thanks!
What do you mean by a "shower pump"?
I have never heard of one. Please be specific, Thanks!

Your heating unit is hopelessly undersized for this to matter. For the pumps, go to a better store and get a pump that is rated for the average shower, about a gallon a minute, at 50 psi.

OK, here’s the deal ( I know it is hokey…) – I have an Above Ground Swimming Pool @ 5500 gallons. I just got an ECCOtemp L-10 Liter Outdoor Tankless Propane Water Heater. – It is supposed to be used for taking showers, etc. I want to use it to help heat my pool. I want to put an electric water pump on the pool to recirculate the water back up to the ECCO. The ECCO needs water pressure of 30-50 PSI to open the ignition circuit for operation. There are alot of types of water pumps to choose from, but they do not list the PSI , just the GPH. I am looking at 1" Clear Water pumps from Harbour Freight – $29 – $49 , 1/2 HP but I don’t know if it will generate the PSI. Submersible pump would be easy also, but not sure if they have the PSI I need. I KNOW that the pool chemicals will affect the ECCO. I want a way to heat my pool in the cooler months, and in the evening – not 24/7. Cost is important. I live in Florida and don’t want to pursue the solar angle on this brainstorm. The pool heats quite nicely on its own, but the above ground really saps the heat from it. I do have the pool somewhat insulated. Thanks!

Hello,

You can force the water to a higher pressure by putting a two way valve after the heat unit. By throttling down the flow, you can increase the back pressure.

The idea of heating your pool for the night is not very cost effective. Calculate the time needed to raise the temp a few degrees, even if you ignore all the loses, especially on an above ground pool. How many BTU’s is this unit? Is there a minimum flow rate for the hot water? If it was designed for showers, the flow rate will not be much.

I did something similar for a custom builder once, but it was all to company specs.

When you heat a pool, you are only allowed to raise the temperature of the incoming water by two degrees over the outgoing water. Why? Safety! You are going to burn the hell out of someone. These things are not approved to use on swimming pools. Be careful!

Keep a cover on the pool when not in use to conserve the heat of course.

Good Luck

Sometimes the water is fine with good pressure. The water is very (hard?). We have replaced every fitting in the house since we moved in 6 years ago. The house is about 30 yrs old. I dont think the well is very deep. We have gotten sediment (could it be a clogged filter? I checked the voltage after the pressure relay and there is 220 VAC and the currrent is there for a few seconds and then 0 amps (pump shuts off). Thanks in advance!!

Sounds like the pressure switch. Here’s how to tell. First find the pressure switch. It’s near your water bladder tank, and covered with a grey plastic cover with a single nut on top of it. Undo the nut. Take the cover off.

Now you have a 220v live electrical component in front of you, so don’t touch anything in there, ok? OK, now get a hard plastic something with no metal on it at all, about 6" or longer. Use the thing to move the metal plate back and forth, you’ll see round copper "pucks" on the ends of each side of this piece. Those are the contacts. If you move the plate so they are contacting each other, does the pump come on?

Yes? Does pressure build? Yes? Replace the pressure switch. Turn off the power for that, then wire the new one just like the old one was, and you’re done.

No? Problem’s not the pressure switch.

I’ve seen iron sediment clog the vanes on a well pump more than once. You’ll want to pull that up as a last-case thing though, since it’ll cost….

Good luck.

I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how & where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks

I assume you are saying that the pressure drops to 20 when no water is being drawn by any faucets, since that will naturally happen if water is drawn.

Four things I would check – first look for leaky toilet float valves – the tank level will drop, and the valve will open periodically to refill the tank if the seal is bad on the float valve.

Secondly, make sure you have a check valve installed on the supply line into the pressure tank to prevent water from flowing back down into the well.

Third, you may need more air in the tank – I would put enough air in so that the off/on cycle was 60 seconds when one faucet was fully open drawing water. This would not be the cause of leakage, but it could increase the frequency of the 50 to 20 psi cycle.

Fourth, I’d adjust the low pressure turn-on point up to over 30 vs. the 20 it is set for now – 20 is probably annoyingly low. Go for a gap of 20 psi from low to high – eg. 30 – 50 psi.

We Previously have a Prima 3400 XL. Now It turns on and off on the GFCI.

Its feature:
Filter pump with a flow at 3 head of 1000gph makiit suitable to run filters of up to 2500 gallons capacity – max flow 1800gph and max head 15

The pump was run dry when there was a blackout of electricity. Any suggestion for a pump that can handle some solids (fine leaves) and does not die when the water is out. Perhaps turns off automatically when there is no water.

The pump is for a cascading waterfalls about 500 gallons water in it. 30 feet in length. Around 3 feet vertical height from the top to the bottom of the stream.

High efficiency is a plus coz it runs 24/7

I got tired of these "pond pumps" that you pay so much for just because they’re for a pond. I went to Ace Hardware, they have a big line of submersible pumps that are reasonably priced. I got a 1/2 horse that pumps 2550 gph continuously. It’s been going for three weeks now, non-stop. For $99.00 on sale.